Peels 101

Peels have a lot going for them. They’re easy-to-use, fast-acting and are packed with active ingredients, which makes them awesome in terms of seeing results, but that ALSO means you need to know what you’re getting into. We called on Jacquie Hutchinson, NEOSTRATA Regional Trainer & Skincare Expert, to break down the basics. Here’s what you need to know before you get started, along with reviews on a variety of peel options.

What is an at-home peel, and what benefits does it offer?

“An at-home peel is an affordable alternative to professional medi-spa treatments – they deliver visible results while saving you time and money.  Advanced at-home peels are formulated as a booster to use as part of your daily anti-aging regimen. Peels exfoliate, or slough off, dead surface cells: what we see as dry, flaky skin.  Adding an at-home peel to your skin-care regimen can help you achieve healthy-looking skin, and with continuous use your skin becomes softer, smoother, lines are visibly reduced, skin is more hydrated and radiant looking. In addition, peels can make moisturizers more effective and help makeup apply smoothly and evenly on the skin,” says Hutchinson.

What's the difference between a retinol-based peel versus a glycolic or AHA-based peel?

“Glycolic Acid (or an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, AHA) and retinol (a form of Vitamin A) are gold-standard ingredients for dermatologists. Some prefer retinol peels, some prefer glycolic acid, but the real deciding factor is which ingredient their patients’ skin can tolerate and improve their skin condition. Glycolic Acid increases skin cell turnover (which slows down with age). It provides an immediate brightening and radiance benefit and over time will improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol resurfaces and refines skin texture and tone, and also targets skin’s natural collagen, which over time helps firm and smooth the look of deep wrinkles,” says Hutchinson.

How can someone choose a peel formula best suited to their skin care needs?

“Select a peel with ingredients that address your skin’s specific needs. I would recommend a glycolic peel to someone who wants micro-peeling to achieve smooth texture and get rid off dull, tired looking skin. While retinol peels I suggest more for those with visible aging signs, such as sagging, wrinkles. Do you need a daily regimen booster? Try our high-strength exfoliating treatment, the NeoStrata Smooth Surface Glycolic Peel with 10% Glycolic Acid ($80). It is formulated to exfoliate, clarify pores, refine skin texture and improve skin tone,” says Hutchinson.

What are your top do’s and don’ts of using a peel?

Here are Hutchinson’s top tips:

• Do follow all instructions on the packaging, especially conducting a patch test to ensure your skin can tolerate the peel. Use only as advised. A brightening peel may be used 2-3 times a week compared to a retinol version, which may only be recommended once a week. Slowly build these products into your skincare routine to allow your skin to acclimate.

• Do follow with a post-procedure product. Use NEOSTRATA Bionic Cream ($75), it intensely hydrates to soothe and comfort stressed skin. 

• Don’t use on a peel on sensitive, extremely dry or reactive skin.  

If deep wrinkles and a lack of firmness are your top concerns, this peel formula is meant for you, says Hutchinson. Designed to be swiped over clean, dry skin and left on overnight once a week, pads are individually wrapped to preserve the stability, and therefore efficacy, of the famously finicky star ingredient. But ya can’t just retinol and run! To earn in an A+ in application, commit to using a night cream chaser and SPF30 (at min.) by day, every day, for best results.

NEOSTRATA Retinol 0.3% Overnight Peel, $80

“This peel has completely changed my skin, it’s never looked better,” Toronto-based makeup artist Angie, aka @angiedib, recently stated in her must-watch IGTV ep called My Nighttime Skin Care Routine. Looking to maintain the result of an IPL treatment, the pro, whose fair complexion is highly prone to clogged pores, breakouts and sun damage, was turned on to this renowned line by a friend. “Dr. Dennis Gross has peel pads of different strengths so I started with the most gentle and then worked up from there in frequency and strength,” she says. The two-step system boasts an acid-heavy mix featuring glycolic, salicylic, lactic and mandelic, as well as retinol, and vitamins C and E. No stranger to an at-home treatment, “I’ve been trying to peel my face off, and get a new one, since I was 16 years old,” she says, it’s the secret sauce in this one that makes it her favourite product OF ALL TIME. In her vid (watch it here!) Angie shares more about this game-changer and demos how she uses it within her routine: “I am having less breakouts, my pores are open and clear, the texture of my skin has completely changed. Everything just looks better since I’ve started using these. The effects are noticeable right away in terms of texture and appearance, the next morning my makeup goes on beautifully and my skin is radiant.” We. Are. Sold.

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel, 60 treatments, $199.

“While I live for exfoliation and masking, and know my way around DIY micro dermabrasion, I hadn’t seriously dabbled in peels as an at-home treatment before meeting this version. Sweet baby Jesus: what have I been missing?! As someone with combination/oily skin that has an affinity for post-inflammatory pigmentation, I’ve found these babies deliver a gentle, yet noticeable, step towards smoother, brighter skin. Each pre-measured tube holds an ample helping of the mix, featuring AHA lactic acid, pumpkin fruit and Australian caviar lime extract. One must simply massage the serum-y liquid onto skin, which makes this peel particularly easy to use. And we like stuff that’s easy. Just let the actives do their thang for a few minutes (like 3-7 max, be sure to set a timer!) and then rinse off with cool water. I swear by these whenever my overall complexion calls for a wee enhancement, like a few weeks ago when a few dark spots needed to be ejected from my face. Sold as a 10-pack for weekly use, I also take advantage of the turbo charge option. You can crack open one tube a night for three evenings in a row, followed by maintenance once a week.” ~ IW

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel, $116

“Yes, the price tag is steep but you won’t be disappointed! When GOOP’s beauty director, Jean Godfrey-June, began chatting about this mask with myself and a few other beauty editors while she was in town with The Detox Market, you could tell it was near and dear to her heart. She said that this exfoliator came to be because Gwyneth wanted something that would ‘rip her face off!’ (😨). And yes, while this mask makes quick work of dead skin cells by whisking them away in three minutes flat, it’s still gentle, I swear! This best-selling mask contains a combo of five exfoliating acids—lactic, tartaric, glycolic, malic and salicylic, plus hyaluronic acid for hydration—so you’re getting a double whammy of both AHAs and BHA. And while the container is small, it’s mighty. The formula is *very* potent so trust me when I say, a little goes a long way. A thin layer over the skin is more than enough to reap the super glowy benefits. In addition to the cocktail of acids, the formula also contains plant-based cellulose beads to give skin a light physical exfoliation while also releasing skin-soothing vitamin B5. When I use this mask (I save it for special occasions because: ahem, price tag) nothing else beats the baby soft, ✨maximum glow✨ I get.” ~EM

GOOP Exfoliating Instant Facial, $175